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My kingdom for power and internet

All the way home just to learn to survive. No power in our neighborhood, no ETA on getting any. I drove up to Zotz on the rumor of AC and wifi and found it to be true. So did dozens of other people.

When I get home, I get to rig up a security system for my alleyway out of rope and cans so that nobody tries to steal my generator. I get to figure out if my generator works and figure out how to protect it from both rain and rising water while keeping it properly ventilated. Check all my batteries and flashlights. Clean all the backyard plants and furniture out of my kitchen so that I can store all my dry goods, canned peaches, and tuna. Get the rest of my windows unstuck so that I can get some air inside. And then get my ass inside for the dusk to dawn curfew so that I don't get tagged by the po-pos, who seem to be really disappointed that they didn't get a Katrina-style looter war and are all keyed up to invent one. Will take cold shower and then read by LED lantern light until my meds kick in and knock me out. In the morning, I go search for more ice and do the whole thing over again.

Work says I'm free to burn the rest of my vacation time (yay! vacation! not!) during the recovery and then I get myself back to work or I stop getting paid. So if power and internet aren't more easily available by Sunday, I have to leave for Austin in order to keep my job. Assuming I can find enough gas to get there, and places to stay when I get there.

I'm home but I'm still in exile. The immense downside of telecommuting. Where I am, it's one of the largest natural disasters in US history. Where the job is, it's Wednesday. The two halves of my split personality are too far apart this week.

Haven't seen my kids in almost two weeks. I suppose three or four more weeks is neither here nor there. Daddies are expendable. Daddies' jobs are not.

Bloody weather.

I'm out. Back to the hotbox. The land off the grid. Text me if you need me, not sure if I'm up for the twitter noise tonight.

I knew Ashley by reputation in the months after the storm. The first words I ever saw by him were:

You do not want to fuck with pissed off New Orleanians. We're the murder capital, bitches. We will rain that shit down on you.

and I thought this might be a man I need to get to know better. And we got acquainted at Geek Dinner I the first night I moved back to New Orleans after 25 years in exile.

But I think the day Ashley Morris and I became friends was during the first Rising Tide planning party at Dangerblond's house. The group hadn't yet thought up the "all agenda items must be addressed before the wine is opened" rule at that meeting, and conversation had degraded into a confused meandering mess, so I got up to go to the kitchen for a break from the madness and Ashley followed me. He dug in the fridge and pulled out an Abita Restoration Ale for himself, and dug out one of my giant bottles of sparkling water and held it out to me by the neck of the bottle, as if to say, "here, you look like you need this". There was something in his manner, like an understanding. There was none of that awkwardness of the drinker around the teetotaler that those of us in recovery are used to dealing with. He just treated me like a normal guy and hefted the bottle towards me knowing it was my drink of choice. He treated me just like a drinking buddy, with no acknowledgement or sense of the difference between what he drank and what I had to drink, not knowing how much I had yearned for the past three years to have somebody treat me unselfconciously like just another drinking buddy.

And so we sat in the kitchen, he with his beer and I with my fizzy water, and we shared our very first of many "JEEZUS, what a clusterfuck this is" rants with each other. We like to rant. We like to curse. We got along great.

I knew I had found a true friend.

We did a lot of stuff together. Not nearly as much as I would have liked. We both had kids to raise, we both worked long hours and had to leave town regularly to work. We both jokingly called ourselves "roller derby widowers" when our wives were at practice leaving us home to watch the kids.

But the memories we do have feel legendary to me. We ate Dooky Chase's takeout on the steps of the Lafitte Projects, in the rain, and no Michelin 4-star white tablecloth crap from out in the world could ever top that experience.

He took me to my first ever Thursday night Kermit show at Vaughan's.

We spent a Mardi Gras day hefting kids up and down ladders, sharing food with total strangers, swapping my gumbo for some pork ribs on the neutral ground on Napoleon, and crashing out on my couch listening to the Treme brass band, feeling fat and happy with the world and with the feeling that many happy Mardi Gras lay ahead of us. The corner of Napoleon and Prytania is our standard spot; it's going to feel empty next year.

I helped him get his first tattoo. I didn't think it would be his last.

We fried turkeys together. We joked about the gay porn that was a running gag in the blog circles, and half-joked about our moral unsuitability to teach at a Catholic girls school.

When I lost my friend Evan to suicide, and I needed to get out of the house and scream and cry and rant at somebody, there was only one person I could call, and it was Ashley, and he dragged himself to Carrollton Station after midnight on a weeknight and stood me rounds of O'Doul's while I stood him rounds of Abita and Jameson, and he patiently let me tell stories and laugh and cry and yell about a guy he'd never even met before. Because he was that kind of friend.

The last time I saw him, two Sundays ago, we spent a chilly afternoon at the Maple Leaf, planning a crawfish boil for the high school volunteers coming down from Maine in a few weeks, and drinking and kvetching and flirting with the bartender, as if two 40-something overweight happily-married geezers from the neighborhood had anything but harmless flirting to offer to a hottie with a pierced navel who liked to flirt back at middle-aged men. When I got home I stunk like cigar smoke. I hate cigars. But with Ashley, I didn't care.

When I broke the bad news about Ashley to my kids, they were both upset, but Liam is taking it kind of hard. He idolized Ashley ("Big Ashley", we called him, to distinguish him from all the girl Ashleys we know). Both he and Ashley were drummers and hockey goalies. Liam bought himself a bad-ass skateboard for his birthday last week:

pictures 002

decorated with a picture of a Mardi Gras Indian Spy Boy, and I said, "Man, you gotta show that to Big Ashley, he'd love it." But he never got the chance. He's still got the hockey stick Ash gave us, an adult size one so that I could do slapshot practice with the kid in the driveway. And he had his NOCCA jazz auditions today, electing to play "St. James Infirmary" as his prepared piece. Last night he couldn't play it, said the song reminded him of the words and the words reminded him of Ashley and he got sad. I told him, "Just remember, buddy, that song is the blues. It's supposed to be a sad song. It's a song they play at jazz funerals, and Big Ashley is gonna have a jazz funeral, so if you feel sad when you play it, then play it sad and that will make it sound even better." Reports are that he blew the judges away at his audition today. That was Ashley pulling strings to keep that reed from squeaking, I bet.

Last night I remembered something from Wednesday. Somewhere in the middle of the day Wednesday, the day Ashley died, before I knew he was gone, I got a weird tight pain in my chest. It started on the left, and slowly spread across my breastbone. I spent a tense 15 minutes trying to decide if it was just something I did to myself at the gym, or if it was something more serious.

Now I know. It was Ashley. He was on his way Home, and he stopped by where I was working and punched me real hard in the chest, just to be funny, just to let me know that I can't go around thinking that he's not going to be making things happen down here on Earth just because he's up there with Zevon and Shavers and Satchmo. He's gonna show up here and pull some strings here and there when he feels like it. Like my grandmother does with cardinals. Like she did with the 2004 Red Sox the year she died and they swept the Cardinals in the World Series in four games.

Watch them Saints this year. You'll see.

His earthly self is going to St. Louis #3 some time next week, the cemetery right behind the Fairgrounds. His soul is going to a righteous place somewhere else. But I have no doubt that every year when Jazz Fest rolls around, if you hang close to that end of the neighborhood, you'll hear an extra drumline coming from somewhere and maybe the whiff of Jameson and a Cubano. You won't be able to see him, but you'll know he's there, drumming like mad and laughing his ass off.

Me neither, H

I just don't wanna.

When I'm lyin' in my bed at night
I don't wanna grow up
Nothin' ever seems to turn out right
I don't wanna grow up
How do you move in a world of fog
That's always changing things
Makes me wish that I could be a dog
When I see the price that you pay
I don't wanna grow up
I don't ever wanna be that way
I don't wanna grow up

Seems like folks turn into things
That they'd never want
The only thing to live for
Is today
I'm gonna put a hole in my TV set
I don't wanna grow up
Open up the medicine chest
And I don't wanna grow up
I don't wnna have to shout it out
I don't want my hair to fall out
I don't wanna be filled with doubt
I don't wanna be a good boy scout
I don't wanna have to learn to count
I don't wanna have the biggest amount
I don't wanna grow up

Well when I see my parents fight
I don't wanna grow up
They all go out and drinking all night
And I don't wanna grow up
I'd rather stay here in my room
Nothin' out there but sad and gloom
I don't wanna live in a big old Tomb
On Grand Street

When I see the 5 o'clock news
I don't wanna grow up
Comb their hair and shine their shoes
I don't wanna grow up
Stay around in my old hometown
I don't wanna put no money down
I don't wanna get me a big old loan
Work them fingers to the bone
I don't wanna float a broom
Fall in and get married then boom
How the hell did I get here so soon
I don't wanna grow up

Guided

Good days are not a guarantee. They are a blessing.

Single-parenting it for a few days. Brother-in-law in town, thinking of staying. He and I and the boy and the girl dined at Vincents. Talked about movies old and new, skateboarding, pranks, music famous and obscure, sazeracs properly and improperly made, homework done and homework still to-do, and ex-girlfriends, recent and long-ago.

On the drive home the boy said "If you re-arrange the letters in Food Mart, you get Doom Fart." Ten minutes later we were still laughing and he said "I feel smart!" and we laughed some more.

By the time we got home we all agreed that "The Official Ironmen Rally Song" rules the fucking universe.

Everybody should have more good days.

bitter fish in crude oil sea
you don't have to bother me
you just have to join in on this song

crawling people on your knees
don't take this so seriously
You just have to hum it all day long

to dine alone
to build a private zone
or trigger a synapse
and free us from our traps

you won't see me turn my back
with my head against my stack
spitting teeth and breaking open skin

official ironmen you are free
champions officially
but you won't catch me on an open chin

to dine alone
to build a private zone
or trigger a synapse
and free us from our traps

save your knock-out punches for the freaks
happy little babies with red cheeks
you will rock them gently out of sync

confirmations through the wire
spitting gas into the fire
am i also worthy of a drink?

to dine alone
to build a private zone
or trigger a synapse
and free us from our traps

Oh, hardee har har

The other day I had myself a doofy little accident that involved me basically falling on my ass for no good reason at all being attacked by ninjas and thrown to the ground. X-rays indicate no fracture, just a bone bruise, so today I took the day off work since my pain meds are incompatible with debugging Java.

While I was snoozing, the wife leaves a message on the machine: "How's your bum'n'nem?"

Ha ha. It is to laugh.

[For my readers from America and other foreign lands, "mama'n'em" is local vernacular for "your immediate family", as in "how's your mama'n'em?" or "how much water they get by your mama'n'em's in the storm?"]

Stay Bamboocha

The part of Nairobi where we're staying, in the Thigiri area, is populated by many ex-pats and embassy staff. It's stunningly beautiful.

Thigiri Lane

It's also hell on my white settler guilt.

We live in a beautiful house in a gated compound, with full-time security guards. We have a cook/housekeeper named Mary, a driver/groundskeeper named Adams, and other staff coming and going. All the properties on this side of Nairobi are gated and have security. Security companies are huge employers of native Kenyans. We only have a simple seven foot stone wall, though; some of the neighbors have razor wire or electric fences. The security is not borne of needless paranoia; crime here is bad, but in the past it has been horrific. This house had two armed home invasions in the early 90's, so even inside there are iron gates that can close one section of the house off from another.

I hate having a domestic staff. At any time of the day I can have food prepared for me by Mary, if I just ask, which means I fix myself cereal and PB&J a lot because I just cannot get past the idea that I am imposing.

We're able to drive ourselves to nearby destinations, but driving is a little intimidating because they drive on the left here, the roads are narrow, there are lots of pedestrians and bicycles, and you have to dodge all these aggressive matatus, which are little minibusses, kind of a cross between public transportation and a group taxi. Like jitneys, I guess. I haven't figured out exactly how they work yet.

The matatus are decorated with stickers and slogans expressing the personality of the driver, kind of like the Latino car clubs do back in Texas, but stranger. The motif is a mix of American hip-hop, reggae, African nationalism, and the odd born-again Christian. My favorite is the "Jesus Peace Biggie Smalls" dude:

Jesus Peace Biggie Smalls

The Kenyans also love their Fanta orange. It's more popular than Coke. I love the Fanta billboards, I've been taking pictures of them everywhere we go:

Stay Bamboocha

"Stay Bamboocha. Drink da Fanta".

"Stay Bamboocha" is now my favorite phrase. I have no idea what it means, but I say it all the time. And I drink lots of Fanta. Because I want to stay bamboocha.

Heathrow

Sorry if the last post alarmed anyone. We're just out of town for two weeks in a place with sketchy internet.

We're on a trip to Kenya to visit Gina's brother's family (he's a political officer in the US Embassy there). I figure it's worthy of at least a few blog posts, but I've only been able to write them here, not post them, because internet service in Kenya is hella slow and uploading pictures is pretty near impossible. So you're getting these all in a bunch at a later date after I've arrived home. Just like Tivo!

On the trip over, we had a long long layover at Heathrow, and the news there is all flood, all the time. Seems the UK has been experiencing flooding on a historic scale recently, and so the images on the news are all water rescue teams launching from the water's edge, people on cars needing rescue, and historic row houses under six feet of water. Remind you of anything? Wait, it gets better.

The government response to the flood has been inept, and preparations were apparently woefully inadequate. Critics are clamoring for investigation and reform. And new Labour Prime Minister Gordon "Brownie" Brown was quoted thusly:

The prime minister said the flooding had been "an emergency that no-one could have predicted".

"One of the issues that will arise is how co-ordinated the services are between the Highways Agency and the Environment Agency, in this particular instance, where people have been inconvenienced using transport, whether it's the roads or the railways," Mr Brown said.

Tory leader David Cameron said a hardship fund should be set up to help those without insurance who had lost possessions.

"Of course, people should have insurance, but many don't and may be left with nothing, and a hardship fund is one way of helping these people," Mr Cameron said.

The Liberal Democrats claimed the government's response had been slow and uncoordinated.

Environment spokesman Chris Huhne said: "We do not even know the areas at greatest risk, and responsibility is dangerously split between councils and water companies."

I wondered (not seriously) if I could leave the airport during the layover and help with cleanup, since I gots experience, or even a little light search and rescue, since I gots light training, but I didn't have anything dry to change into. Still, it would beat spending thirteen hours sitting around Heathrow.

Anyway, they're stupid for living there.

Thirteen hours at Heathrow is something invented by Dante. We had originally thought about taking the Tube into central London and roaming about for a while, but the Tube system was a commuter nightmare due to so many stops being flooded, so instead we used some of the money we'd saved by choosing such a shitty itinerary and spent it on a room at the Heathrow Hilton. Check-in 9am UTC, check out 4pm. Beats sitting around the terminal all jet-lagged.

The last leg of the trip was a 9 hour flight to Nairobi, then an hour getting bags and figuring out what day it was and where we were going, then an hour-long car ride through rush hour traffic. 2.3 million people in a city with no freeways can make a lot of traffic, even if the vast majority of them walk to work.

We left our house in New Orleans at 8:30 Saturday morning. Arrived at the bro-in-law's house 8:30 Monday morning. Fortunately he lives in white settler splendor.

More Nairobi next post.

The Wall

Wake up at 3:30am. Drive to Mississippi. Prepare for battle:

Liam Liam Liam

Goalie Liam (CCHL #30) channels Jim Craig (USA #30):

56 seconds of fun. Five blocked shots (at 0:04, 0:08, 0:16, 0:20, 0:29). They ended up tying the game 2-2.

The coastal rivals Mississippi Beachdogs have cool uniforms:

Mississippi Beachdogs

Final game, lost 7-0, despite 32 saves(!) from the boy. Being a human wall can really wear a kid out:

Liam

Roller derby tonight. Good thing we have skates, or how would we keep up?

May 3rd

13 years ago today, Cassidy poked her head out for the first time, looked around, and decided to stay.

One of my mother's first thoughts upon learning of her new granddaughter was "Her birthday is May 3rd. Just like the May 3rd flood."

May 3, 1978. At this very moment 29 years ago I was paddling a pirogue around a flooded Algiers with a bunch of other junior high delinquents. Da water never got into our house.

Sadly, this will be the first time in Cassidy's life that James Brown is not celebrating along with her.

It ain't all bad

In fact lots of times it's pretty damn good.

I know I tend to bitch and moan a lot, and even though my lunch at Mandina's did fall through at the last minute, I had a damn fine weekend.

Friday French Quarter Festival and riding the Triumph around the city all afternoon with Cassidy.

Saturday brunch at Elizabeth's (Eggs Florentine...creamed spinach, potatoes, poached eggs and hollandaise with the best fried oysters I've had all season), then Gina's birthday dinner at Manale's (way more oysters at the oyster bar than we paid for, then I had the ribeye which was splendiferous).

Sunday, I took Liam over to the weekly music workshop at Tipitina's, where he got to jam onstage with the New Orleans Saxophone Quartet, and where I got confirmation that he knows enough about the sax to play along with the big folks, with a little coaching:

Liam on sax Liam on sax Liam on sax

and then found out much to my surprise that he fucking jams on the drums when somebody asks him to "just lay down a groove":

Liam on drums

We celebrated his jazz debut by hitting opening day at Hansen's (strawberry with condensed milk for me...it's a tradition) and right after I took this picture:

Hansen's opening day

the crowds who'd been in line behind me came out looking all sadfaced, and we find out that the ancient motor on the custom sno-bliz machine had burnt out, and they were closing. I got the last sno-ball. Judge Hansen says he'll hopefully have it fixed by next Thursday so cross your fingers. Sorry. It was a really good sno-ball, too. Heh heh.

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