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April 10, 2006
New Orleans visit #4
Last weekend got off to a great start when I managed to get a picture of the DYK anthology on display in the airport bookstore. Right below Rising Tide, right next to River Road Recipes, and if you look closely at those blue books on the top shelf, that's A Confederacy of Dunces. Fine, fine company I keep now.
Chin Music's Voices blog has a summary of the book signing at the Barnes & Noble in Baton Rouge, here. (With pictures of myself and Jette.)
And they talk about the Tennessee Williams festival events, here. (More pictures.)
The rest of the weekend, I ran around looking at real estate, only half seriously. And looking at schools, slightly more seriously. And being taken on a tour of every Irish pub in the Quarter, with complete and utter seriousness and focus, by the charming Maitri, who knows every bartender and chef in the neighborhood, and who scored us some amazing cajun curried duck thing at Asian Cajun (goofy name, unbelievably good food) on Decatur Street, and then took us to Dante's Kitchen on Sunday night where I had escargot, and black drum on a bed of truffle grits in a something-something brown butter sauce. I came. Twice, in fact.
Most of my other meals were all of the sandwich variety. You could eat nothing but sandwiches for a month in New Orleans and never get bored. Had a smothered duck po-boy at Crabby Jack's, a muffaletta at Napoleon House, a roast beef & horseradish po-boy and a Barq's at Domilise's. Wuz good, I miss it all.
Spending my entire weekend on the Sliver and in the Quarter, it was almost possible to forget about Katrina. Til Monday, I did some driving around through Broadmoor, Gert Town, and Gentilly. Seven months later, and these once dense and thriving neighborhoods are ghost towns, piled with debris. Broadmoor residents are clearly fighting the good fight, but it looks like it will be years before it will be the kind of neighborhood you want to bring your kids to. Same in Gentilly. It's just overwhelming, still, seven months later. Progress, where it exists, is moving at a crawl.
Posted by ray at April 10, 2006 10:42 PM | Permalink
Categories: [baton rouge | books | food | katrina | new orleans | writing ]
Comments
Incredible, isn't it....
I am a former Broadmoor resident--I hate saying former, but that's the reality right now. I was back in town a few weeks ago and saw "a little" progress from the time I spent there in October cleaning the house out. At least the streets are "passable" right now. Still, as I wandered the streets and said hello to the various residents who had come back, I missed the sounds of cars traveling along Fontainebleu where I would walk my dog on the neutral ground, the smells of Cuban sandwiches at the Rendon Grocery, and the occasional sounds of gunfire in Gerttown.... My car is still parked on the street, one wheel missing, waiting for the eventual final drive to the great crushing bin in the sky. I have no doubt the neighborhood will come back. I hope it does when my 2 year old son is ready to enter Tulane....
Thanks for your posts and for reminding me of all I miss. If you're ever up my way, I'll make you a muffuletta sandwich that will rival Central Grocery. I also make a wicked White Chocolate Bread Pudding. How about next "First Thursday?" You name the place, and we'll share stories and food.
Take care,
Banzai
Posted by: Banzai Bill at April 10, 2006 11:55 PM
smothered duck po-boy
That almost sounds as good as sex.
Not quite, but you know, close.
Posted by: Elvis at April 11, 2006 12:37 AM
I wish I could have been at the TW Fest. How was it?
Suspect that Gentilly/Lakeview looks like the Hiroshima I saw in February. I drove past a friend's house several times, but couldn't recognize it. People in the rest of the country have NO IDEA. They see John Goodman posing next to a streetcar (with *still-dirty* windows, obviously rolled out of the barn just for the tourism ad!!) and think everything is A-OK again.
Hope to get the poets'anthology out in the next few weeks...latest target was for Jazz Fest, but no word as yet as to launch plans in the city itself.
Posted by: Robin at April 11, 2006 8:49 AM
Oh, and UNO is trying to get rid of as many faculty as possible, regardless of tenure. That's a really, really depressingly bad idea. The Chronicle of Higher Ed's Katrina forum has been keeping an eye on things.
Posted by: Robin at April 11, 2006 8:51 AM
Hey Bill: I think it will come back, but it's going to be a long hard slog. Up Fontainebleu near the seminary things are hopping pretty well, lots of houses look occupied and others are being fixed up or are on the market. But I drove around down in Broadmoor proper, wiggled around S Robert and Octavia and then up Salcedo to Earhart...it's bad, man. It's going to take concerted and organized effort to bring it back; it's not just a question that individual homeowners can tackle on their own.
I'm going to take you up on that offer. When you gonna be in Austin?
Karl: There are definitely women who I wouldn't throw out of bed for a smothered duck po-boy. But then again, there are also women who I would trample in my rush to the lunch counter. It was GOOD.
Robin: I only went to the DYK panel at the festival, so I don't know how the rest of it went, but ours was well attended, maybe 70 people. And Ashley Morris reported yesterday that Loyola is following Tulane around like a puppy dog (eh, so what's new) and permanently closing their Computer Science department.
New Orleans is like your funny, loveable little brother who is also a fucking retard. You miss him, but half the time you want to give him a smack for being so stupid.
Posted by: Ray at April 11, 2006 9:11 AM
You know, I just realized that I had the perfect cuisine-and libations weekend with Ray.
Irish pub tour (with red wine included somewhere in there for good measure) followed by meals at Asian Cajun and Dante's Kitchen, my favorite restaurants in NOLA.
Holy shit - the mind-body complex unconsciously let go for one weekend. I'll be damned.
Posted by: Maitri at April 11, 2006 9:32 AM
"New Orleans is like your funny, loveable little brother who is also a fucking retard. You miss him, but half the time you want to give him a smack for being so stupid."
Brilliant. Perfect. Thank you. I should use that as a tagline somewhere-or-other.
Posted by: Jette at April 11, 2006 1:44 PM
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