Uni -- so *that's* what all the fuss is about
I haven't had sushi in ages, so my sponsor and I went to Musashino to get some the other night, and as an extra thpecial treat, Ray's in town, so I dragged him along. It was insanely crowded and there was a long wait for seats, so we people-watched and pointed out particularly gruesome specimens to each other.
This might be bad behavior particularly considering we're all reformed drunks trying to purge character defects, but recreational misanthropy is an art form. Plus, it's actually egalitarian in a way. For instance, you never make fun of people for things they can't help -- physical shape, looks, ethnicity, any handicap. On the other hand, things like clothing, hair, comportment, and general behavior are fair game. "Progress, not perfection."
The waitstaff at Musashino are uniformly young, Asian, female, petite, and cute. This can't be coincidence. Our teeny, doll-like waitress brought us hot hand towels. God, I've missed those. I've always loved that particular part of Japanese restaurant service, especially getting the occasional chilled towels in the summer. I tried to figure out the ethnicity of our waitress. I concluded Vietnamese. My dining companions were probably wondering why I was objectifying her like that, given my hatred of being asked "what" I am, but it's something we Asians do to each other. We like to speculate on what sort of Asian a person is, and we like hapa*-spotting. [Note: I'm gonna delete any comments whining about how minorites are able to do to each other things that non-minorities can't do.]
We were silly to not have ordered edamame or something, since it took forever to get our sushi. Plus, being recovered alkies, we couldn't even get a buzz on to make the wait pleasant. Instead, we were reduced to looking for Shiatsu pressure points to suppress hunger.
Here's what I eventually got: salmon skin hand roll (which was fucken fabulous), a marinated maguro (I don't like plain maguro, although toro is always welcome), fatty salmon, hamachi (they had hamachi cheeks on the menu, but were out that day, to my crushing disappointment), spicy lobster, tai (red snapper in this case -- actual tai isn't red snapper, but one of its relatives), and tempura softshell crab roll. There might have been more, but I don't remember, 'cause the other sushis were eventually overshadowed.
Ray likes uni. By "like" I mean he'll order like seven or eight and might spear your hand with a chopstick if you try to cockaroach** one. And after he polishes them all off, you can see him getting restless, eyes darting around, as he mentally weighs an uni-heavy restaurant bill against things like mortgages and clothes for his kids.
I've always said I hate uni, that it tastes like the bottom of a fish tank. But after uni-related conversations with Ray and Syl, we came to the mutual conclusion that I probably have had bad uni. I've eaten it multiple times, with retch-inducing results. I'd felt like I'd given it more than enough chances. I've also had crab innards (kanimiso in Japanese, the crab equivalent of tomalley) another retch-worthy experience, so I have viewed sea creature innards with suspicion.
Anyway, Ray offered to order one for me, like a crack dealer offering a free sample. He actually offered me half of his four, but I said, no, I'll just have the one. It lay lightly and delicately in its little nori nest. Unlike the other unis I've had, which were grainy and somewhat dry-looking, this one looked lustrous and moist. Here goes, I thought and popped it in my mouth.
Brok da mout***! Luscious briny creaminess! So ONO****!
I did not have just "the one."
Why am I so excited that I wrote a long-ass post about this? You have to understand that I love the ocean. It pulls at me in a primal way; I felt that pull when I went sea kayaking. You also have to understand that food also pulls at me in a primal way. That little urchin contained the ocean in microcosm. People like Ray and Syl aren't crazy, I've just had the cosmic bad luck to have eaten bad uni each time. A wave of remorse washed over me as Ray reminded me that I have lived years in Japan and could have gotten the good stuff, had I not had uni-phobia. I'd been a total fool. I'm officially converted, and will henceforth join the Uni Cult.
This was most instructive. It makes me think I've had bad crab innards, too, so kanimiso here I come.
*hapa = Hawaiian pidgin for a biracial person, usually meaning half-Asian.
**cockaroach = pidgin for "steal." Upon discovering a missing uni, a Hawaiian might angrily say, "Who ben cockaroach my uni???"
***brok da mout = "break the mouth," meaning "extremely tasty".
****ono = also means delicious.
Hiromi_X
Comments
::smiles::
It's hard to describe to people what *good* uni is supposed to taste like. I always say "like fresh ocean"--cold, *slightly* briny, but also sweet and lip-smacking, like the cleanest of fresh ocean water. But I think that's hard for people to really imagine. And then I'll say the consistency should be "creamy and soft but also solid," which also doesn't make sense if you've never really had the right stuff. But if you've had it, you know those can coexist.
No mushiness, no graininess. Just smoooooth going down.
Damn, I love the stuff. I'm glad you finally had uni good enough to get it. If you find a place that does it right, keep getting it from that place. If you go someplace and it's bad to mediocre (or suddenly becomes that way after having once been good), it means they don't give a damn and are watching their budget, NOT that it was a one-time bad batch. Don't bother trying it there again--it'll always suck. That's been my experience.
1. Posted by Miss Syl on May 17, 2007
Also:
I love the ocean. It pulls at me in a primal way
I'm just the same. Even when I was a baby, my parents tell me whenever we went to the beach, if they put me down, I'd immediately crawl right for the ocean. I wasn't afraid of it at all like other kids.
2. Posted by Miss Syl on May 17, 2007
Syl said:
It's hard to describe to people what *good* uni is supposed to taste like. I always say "like fresh ocean"--cold, *slightly* briny, but also sweet and lip-smacking, like the cleanest of fresh ocean water.
See, that's exactly what you said to me. I said, "Uni is dank and fish tank-like." You said the above. The disjuncture between the two was great enough to make me wonder.
Had you said, "I love the pungency," I would have felt safe in my judgment, but what you said was radically different from my experience.
The ocean just...soothes something in me. I too have always wanted to run out and be one with it, or something. I love everything about it, the smell, sound, ocean breeze, the way the waves buoy you up, the rhythm of it.
3. Posted by Hiromi on May 17, 2007
And you're right about the texture. It's moist and creamy, but not runny or anything.
4. Posted by Hiromi on May 17, 2007
"...recreational misanthropy is an art form."
Isn't it though? It's my favorite thing to do it public.
:)
5. Posted by aag on May 17, 2007
recreational misanthropy is an art form
That's fucking brilliant. Into the sig bar it goes.
See? SEE? Bad uni is vaguely nasty, and by bad, I mean, most of it. But when it's right, it's the best sushi the world has to offer. I only order it when I trust my chef, AND when I can see it. Because the color and texture are a huge factor in uni's goodness.
Uni taste like a combination of sex and the ocean, and it really doesn't get any more primal than that.
6. Posted by Elvis on May 17, 2007
AAG, it's a guilty pleasure I'll never give up, despite my efforts in character reform. I think my justifications will simply get more complex, as befits an alcoholic.
Oh yeah, Karl, you're one of Them, who are now Us, since I've converted.
Because the color and texture are a huge factor in uni's goodness.
Yeah, the bad uni I've eaten looked different. The good uni looked shiny and happy in their little nori nests. The bad uni simply lay there listlessly and glumly.
7. Posted by Hiromi on May 17, 2007
damn. you make me want to run out now and be a convert, too.
8. Posted by {illyria} on May 17, 2007
Goddammit, I've got to get out of this cultural wasteland and into the world, where there's decent restaurants and shit. And stop being so motherfuckin' broke all the time.
How'd you end up figuring Vietnamese ?
9. Posted by Timory on May 17, 2007
...you're one of Them, who are now Us...
We accept her--one of us--gooble, gobble--we accept her--one of us--gooble, gobble...
(Sorry. Couldn't help it; too easy.)
10. Posted by Miss Syl on May 17, 2007
Be careful, Illyria. Bad uni has scarred me for life.
Timory, the first thing I thought was, she doesn't look Chinese or Japanese. She was super pale (yes, there are pale Vietnamese), had delicate elfin features, and was super-petite. Kinda like a Vietnamese of Chinese extraction. This is only my opinion, but Japanese features on the whole seem rounder than hers somehow, and Chinese, stronger. I'm not a good Korean-spotter. I always peg them for Chinese or Japanese.
I want to emphasize (to people in general) that this is completely unscientific and based solely on a limited sample of Asians I've seen personally. This is not meant to be a serious activity, it's just something Asians like to do. We like to huddle together and figure out what other Asians are. It's fun.
What's *really* easy though, is differentiating between Asian-Americans and Asian-Asians.
Syl, that quote is a total reflex for me. Whenever someone says "one of us," I automatically chant that line.
11. Posted by Hiromi on May 18, 2007
I read somewhere that Japan is dispatching master "edomae zushi" chefs overseas to "teach" foreign sushi chefs how to make edomaezushi correctly. This might be a good thing when it comes to serving good, fresh uni, even if the whole concept of "master teaching the amateur" is a bit, um, heavy-handed.
I never pegged you for speaking Pidgin! I guess it shows I didn't read your past blogs... To me, ocean, Pidgin, and good sushi are all intertwined in my head. In a good way, in a fond way. I live on the East Coast now and see a fair number of tourism commercials about the beaches in Bahamas, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Bermuda, Florida, etc. I always think "you suckers, you've never swum in Waimea Bay on O'ahu or Makena on Maui!" Not that these Atlantic islands don't have beautiful ocean, but you know, I'm partial to Hawai'i.
Do you have a book called "pidgin to da Max" or "Da Kine Dictionary"? Good fun! Make me homesick...
12. Posted by Campy Only on May 18, 2007
But have you actually SEEN the film it's from?
13. Posted by Miss Syl on May 18, 2007
Dude, I saw Freaks when I was in high school! I was a horror movie geek for a little while.
14. Posted by Hiromi on May 18, 2007
Campy, I might speak a little pidgin, but what you wrote -- Hawai'i -- I don't pronounce it that way, 'cause I'm from da mainlan'. My dad and the rest of my Hawaii-based family pronounces it "Hawai'i," while the rest of us just say "Hawaii." Are you from there?
15. Posted by Hiromi on May 18, 2007
Just one more reason to love you.
16. Posted by Miss Syl on May 18, 2007