The Nostalgia Factor
Today, I was seized with a wonderful idea that I had to act upon immediately. I'd been pondering nostalgia as a factor in food appreciation over the weekend. This morning, I wondered if Spaghettios and Hostess products -- specifically Twinkies, CupCakes, HoHos, and Ding Dongs -- were as good as I remember. So I ditched work and headed out to buy all of the above.
I had no idea where to buy these things in the grocery store. I found the Spaghettios in the pasta aisle. For some reason, it didn't occur to me to look there. I was wandering around the canned food aisles. Also, I didn't think to look for the Hostess products in the bread aisle. They just don't seem bread-like to me at all. However, they're only sold in big boxes because American corporations hate single people, so I had to go to a convenience store to get singles.
I'm sorry to say I fought and lost an internal battle with Pointless Food Snobbery at the convenience store. I wandered the aisles until I found the Twinkies, HoHos, etc. Then, I waited until the aisle was empty of customers before grabbing one of each. I refused to wait in line with those things in my hands, as if the guy buying a Jumbo Slurpee and one of those dubious convenience store ham sandwiches and the woman with the Doritos and Big Red were going to judge me. Nevertheless, I hid until the other customers were gone, peering above stacks of candy bars and motor oil to watch the progress of the line. I went up to the register and resisted an urge to explain to "Ester" that this was an experiment in food nostalgia. Ester barely glanced at me or my Twinkies, and I felt vaguely ashamed.
Spaghettios
I loved these things as a kid, even the weird little spongy meatballs. Especially the weird little spongy meatballs. And I loved how the O's came in three sizes. Apparently, they start with some kind of noodle cylinder in the factory, and punch out holes in three different sizes so as not to waste any noodle. I don't know about you, but I find that fascinating.
I just now heated up the can. What the fuck???? It's SWEET. The sauce has even less tomato flavor than ketchup! Wait a minute... it tastes like condensed Campbells' Tomato Soup. Of course. Spaghettios are made by Campbells. And that explains the goddamn noodle process!
All right, I'm trying a meatball. Jesus Christ. What *is* that taste? Why on earth did the sponginess appeal to me as a kid?
I just rinsed one off in the sink, and it looks like a turd.
So much for nostalgia for Spaghettios. Now, dessert. Here's what happened:
HoHos
I was pleased to find that HoHos come three in a package. How unexpected! An odd number of items in a package! What I always found lovely about HoHos was that you could unroll them. A HoHo is a chocolate-coated chocolate roll cake with white cream filling. More specifically, it is a nasty piece of chocolate leather-coated chocolate roll cake with gritty sweet white grease in the middle. The problem is, the chocolate sponge cake, which is the best part of the HoHo, is very thin, so the nastiness of the chocolate leather and the sweet white grease are overwhelming.
Next.
Ding Dongs
Wait a fucking minute... HoHos, Ding Dongs, and CupCakes are the same goddamn thing, just in different shapes and proportions. Shit.
Actually, it turns out that shape and proportion *do* make a difference. A Ding Dong is a chocolate sponge cake in the form of a hocky puck, with a zot of sweet white grease in the middle. The puck is then coated with "chocolate". The chocolate sponge cake to sweet white grease ratio is much higher than that of the HoHo, so Ding Dongs are more tolerable. Also, maybe I had a bad HoHo, because the cream filling in the Ding Dong wasn't gritty (Hostess doubtless uses the same cream filling in everything). However, the weird chocolate leather coating is still actively unpleasant. I'm sure the manufacturer had to dick around with the chocolate coating so that it wouldn't melt too quickly during packaging, transport, etc., but that means it doesn't melt in your mouth. Which feels just wrong. You don't chew chocolate like gum!
CupCakes
By far the best, as it has the highest chocolate sponge cake to sweet white grease ratio. It does have a slab of that nasty non-melting "chocolate" on top, with a pointless swirly pattern of what must be sweet white wax. However, chewing the "chocolate" in slab form is somehow less unpleasant than chewing it in leather form.
While I'm not surprised that these things taste horrible to me as an adult, I'm a bit disappointed that the Nostalgia Factor is so low.
On to Twinkies.
My fingers got greasy when opening the package: a bad sign. My fingers got even greasier handling the damn Twinkie. Twinkies have a low sponge cake to sweet white grease ratio, so I didn't expect much when I bit off half of one. I had to spit it out. The sweetness and greasiness were overwhelming. It occurred to me that the flavor of chocolate can mask a great deal. Twinkies, being made of yellow sponge cake, have nothing to mask their disturbing chemical taste. It was as if they're not made of flour or other edible ingredients, but with petroleum products. However, the sheer nastiness of the Twinkie posed an interesting challenge. I wasn't about to give up. I had 1.50 Twinkies left. I decided to freeze the other half of the one I bit, and deep fry the other one. I'd heard of deep fried Twinkies, a horrifying concept, but what the fuck. I decided to try it.
The frozen Twinkie was somehow not as bad as the raw Twinkie. It's not that the cold numbed my tongue; rather, hardening the sweet white grease turned it to a kind of nougat candy, and I just like the texture of frozen cake.
Now, for the other Twinkie. I whipped up some tempura batter and heated some oil. I rolled the hapless Twinkie in the batter, and dropped it into the hot oil with some trepidation, worried that it might fall apart or something. It bubbled satisfactorily, and a pleasant aroma wafted up. When it was golden brown, I lifted it out with tongs and placed it on a rack. I tapped the tempura coating -- hmm, nice and crisp.
It. Was. Fucken. Good. The tempura batter fused with the greasy yellow sponge cake and transformed it into a feather-light lattice with a cakey interior. An important lesson learned here: *hot* greasiness is good while *cold* greasiness is disgusting. Best of all, the sweet white grease transformed into... MELTED MARSHMALLOW GOODNESS!!!
So, while the Nostalgia Factor rates disappointingly low for all the things I tried today, I discovered that Twinkies make a fine raw material.
Hiromi_X
Comments
Thank you so much for being braver than I am; your descriptions made me laugh out loud, especially the spaghettios. . . amazing what we like as children. I am thinking of vienna sausages (bleah), and honey-nut cheerios drenched in melted butter. Wait. Actually, the Cheerios would probably still taste good to me, but my arteries would immediately revolt. Damn getting older.
1. Posted by Bad Kitty on August 22, 2006
I don't seem to ever lose my taste for nostalgia kid food, even as I recognize it's supposed grossness.
I've had Spaghettios in the past few years and actually still liked it--though I hated the meat/hot dog versions even as a kid. It made the sauce taste all weird and chemical-y. Tomato sauce with cheese is the way to go.
And as for cake products, well, for absolute constant perfection you have to ditch anything Hostess and go for Tastykake. They are FAR superior--barely in the category of junk food. Don't have that carboard chocolate shit going on. Just damn good cake. The only thing coated is their peanut butter Kandy Kakes, and that'll melt in your mouth. One bite of any of their stuff and I'm right back to childhood, AND they're just as good as I remember them. But they're kind of regional, so most people out your way don't know them well. You can get 'em in boxes in the supermarket sometimes, but you can't get individual ones.
2. Posted by Miss Syl on August 22, 2006
Deep fried Twinkies rock.
3. Posted by Darkneuro on August 22, 2006
Fantastic! A fish and chips shop in my neighborhood (Greenwich Village) makes the deep fried twinkies . . . and mars bars . . . as well as some other candy treats too! Mmmmmmmmm.
As for the spaghettios . . . by comparison, the chef-boy-r-dee beefaroni/ravioli/etc. sauces are salty, salty, salty! But palatable.
4. Posted by Brian on August 22, 2006
I have so many nostalgia foods, and I still eat a lot of them every once in a while. Really bad Chinese buffet, the $4.99 kind. And the Mexican version of that (do you have Pancho's there?). A special treat my mother used to make - jello, with holes poked in it with a knife, then condensed milk poured over the top. Add me to the vienna sausage list, too.
Some relative of mine used to work for Taskycake. They're one thing I loved as a kid that I can't stand now. I never liked Twinkies, but I have had the deep fried kind, and they are much better then the non-fried version.
Along those same lines, I have a terrifying link for you: Recipes from the White Castle Cookoff. Yes, it's sliders as ingredients!
5. Posted by Tina Marie on August 22, 2006
Well, it isn't just food that doesn't taste right from your childhood:
Rediscovering He-Man
:)
It's funny because I have no actual nostalgia foods. The most nostalgic thing I can really think of is a beer that Magnolia Brewpub in the Haight here in SF makes called Proving Ground. I mean, it's not something I ever had as a child, obviously, but the smell and flavor of it is like nostalgia in a glass for me for some reason. It taste the way I remember fall feeling when I was a kid.
The foods I liked in my childhood I still like and consider good food now, like Southern cornbread (distinguished from yankee cornbread by the fact that it doesn't have sugar - it's break you yanks, not cake!), black eyed peas cooked with bacon fat and sprinkled with salt, and sliced and salted tomatoes straight from the garden.
Everything else... well, you know, it was stuff I ate but don't really remember. I vaguely remember trying those nasty Vienna sausages (if I were the city of Vienna, btw, I would sue that company, since the sausage I had in the city of Vienna, Austria was simply some of the best food I have ever had), a few canned things like you have mentioned, but overall, I can't really check off in my head any particular thing aside from maybe Pixie Stix that I would called a nostalgic guilty pleasure).
6. Posted by smallerdemon on August 23, 2006
For some very interesting Web surfing, google "twinkie science" and have fun. I'm sure that HoHo's, Cupcakes, and Ding Dongs respond in similar ways to similar stimulii. I am damn sure that, like politics and sausage, we would not enjoy watching any Hostess Treat being made.
On kid foods. Having had been one and raised two, it is astounding what they crave and like. Never follow a child's recommendation on where or what to eat! Never! They eat things that are so sweet that my teeth hurt within six feet of the item. They mix things together that give me the "swirlies" just to imagine, much less smell! Then they consume the resulting mixture with obvious gusto...
Of course, I now enjoy things like beer and Serious Cheeses that would turn me inside out as a kid.
7. Posted by Mister Wireless on August 23, 2006
Delicious post, Hiromi!
I bet you can buy condoms without hiding around and waiting for the line to go away.
I used to eat spaghetti-os and the like all the time as a kid. Well, until a fateful night in first grade whe I woke up and started vomiting spaghetti-os ALL OVER THE FRICKING PLACE. I mean ... that was a lot of vomit, and it was in such a hurry to leave my body that it came out throuhg my nostrils as well. That shiz BURNED, yo!
I took it as a sign.
-danny
8. Posted by Danny Howard on August 23, 2006
The first time I moved out of my ex-wife's (then girlfriend's) house, I had nothing to cook with. So I hit the grocery store and bought an aluminum sauce pan. But what to cook in it?
I bought a couple of cans of Spaghettios, remembering my ever present childhood desire for them. Mom would never buy them insisting that her "real spag" was better, and better for me. She may have been right about the latter, even with my current palate.
I cooked the Spaghettios and thought to myself, WTF? Why were these good when I was younger? My immediate thought was that they must have changed the recipe over the years, like they fucked with the fries at Burger King with that fiberglass coating, or kept adding mummified marshmallows to Lucky Charms.
As far as the Hostess cakes with whipped lard products, I haven't eaten one in years. And a deep fried Twinkie does sound really yummy, but with my current red meat, beer and nicotine diet, I'd just be testing the fates by trying one (I keep imagining instant heart blow-out even before I've even digested it).
Ironically, I'll have that county fair corndog any day, but deep fried Twinkies? I irrationally equate them to cyanide.
9. Posted by Whirly on August 23, 2006
About once a year, I have an overwhelming atavistic desire to eat Twinkies, and I have to consume an entire box. I always feel sick and ashamed afterwards, like I just fucked the family dog or something.
I still love my Spaghetti-o's. They taste different now because they took out all the sodium. The Spaghetti-o's with the little franks still taste like the good ol' days, though.
Kraft Mac & Cheese is another childhood favorite that still tastes good.
10. Posted by COOP on August 24, 2006
Nope, NEVER liked Spaghetti-o's. Damned stuff was always so frickin' sweet, it just tasted like bad ketchup thinned with water. Have you ever seen the various names they marketed Ding Dongs under? I seem to recall King Dons and some other name I can't recall at the moment. Twinkies never did it for me, either.
11. Posted by tskathy58 on August 24, 2006
Nice experiment Hiromi. Ever try doing one of those things that as a kid you would imagine being able to do as an adult because your parents wouldn't let you at the time? Like "when I grow up I am going watch cartoons all day!" Every once in awhile I go for those super sweet breakfast cereals that I thought were so great as a kid. Most are terrible - Cap'n Crunch tears up the roof of your mouth. But Fruity Pebbles are really not bad....
12. Posted by Captured Shadow on August 24, 2006
I don’t care for Tastykake, instead preferring Drake’s Cakes. Even though they’re now owned by Hostess, there is still a difference in taste. For example, Yodels taste better than Ho Hos.
As for fried Twinkies, great advances have been made in the fried food category, as can be witnessed at any county fair. Fried Snickers bars, dill pickles, Oreos, Cheesecake, and so on. There are technical challenges to each of these, especially in the candy bar sector. You don’t want the thing to explode into a mass of goo right through the batter while you’re frying it.
I am told the preferable method for Twinkies is to first pop it in the refrigerator to chill. Then, roll in flour, dip in tempura batter and fry in oil at 380 degrees Fahrenheit for a couple minutes.
The fried Twinkie was invested by Chris Sell at ChipShop in Brooklyn. Want to see them fry something? Visit their website.
As for the Franco-American and Chef Boyardee products, my 22-year-old daughter still likes to eat them occasionally. I’ll take a bite and remember how awful they taste.
13. Posted by The Pop View on August 25, 2006
I at Spaghettios, HoHo's, and Hostess Cupcakes as a kid, too! Haven't had the Spaghettios or HoHo's in a looong time either. The cupcakes, tho, are a great treat when driving across the Pennsylvania.
I also remeber drinking Tang and eating some other type of 'astronaut' food stick that I can't remember the name of.
14. Posted by SheenV on August 25, 2006
Thanks for taking the tempura twinkie challenge for all of us chicken shits out here. Twinkies do NOT taste anything like they did when I was a kid, but I could be mistaken because we were not allowed to have them in our house since, horror of horrors, my grandmother made home made cookies and bread and so processed stuff, the stuff we wanted more than anything, were out of the question.
I like ho-hos (I do not know how to make that plural) I must admit and your description of the "leather like" quality of the chocolate was dead on.
Great blog.
And my divorce was about that simple too, and in Illinois, the court date is when your divorce is final. Hope it is the same in Texas. Sounds like it. Good luck. I agree you deserve at the very least, a red carpet to walk to the courtroom on. A little trumpet playing along the sidelines would add a nice touch I think.
15. Posted by ~Storm on August 26, 2006
Ding Dongs are also packaged under the names Ring Dings and King Dons (same exact product, different regional names, I think... the same way Hellman's and Best Food's are the exact same mayonnaise).
As a kid, I ate a can of Spaghetti-Os almost every day after school (a 3 O'Clock meal)... at least when I didn't have McDonald's or Burger King food to devour. I loved how the thin sauce was a tart, sweet mix of tomato and cheese, and I loved cutting all the meatballs or mini franks in half, to make them last longer. As a result of the jonze (and other snack habits), I was a very fat kid in high school, and I didn't get thin again until college, when force of will, and then poverty, and later apathy, led to a sort of starvation diet.
As for nostalgia foods, I have a very strong negative nostalgia factor when it comes to cheap ramen noodle soup, which I ate for lunch every day for several months, in the mid 1990s, while working an awful office cubicle job and existing on nearly no money. I was perfectly happy eating this dirt cheap soup day after day, until, all at once it seemed, something inside me said "No more." I don't think I've eaten a single bit of it since, although since I moved to Los Angeles, I've gained an appreciation for the real thing... there are several great noodle houses in and around my neighborhood of Silver Lake. As for the cheap supermarket stuff, even if I wanted to try it again, I can't justify paying what LA grocery stores charge for it. I remember it being around 4 for a dollar in Virgina, and often even cheaper than that in Syracuse... here in LA it's like a dollar for a single package, I think.
16. Posted by BillS on August 28, 2006
Great reviews!!! And soooo on the money. ANY Franco-American product was and is shit(to me) even when I was a kid! And now it's worse ... go figure. Someone in the Board Room had to scare the CEO into cutting corners ... mainly quality and flavor.
Nothing tastes like it used to, I mean NOTHING! And its not because our tastes have changed ... it's because it all really sucks! I prefer my McDonald's burger to be freshly cooked (believe me, when it is it's good)instead of being pulled from a sock drawer, which they refer to as a "holding bin." And my biggest complaint ... LEAVE FUCKING FRIES ALONE! It's very simple ... cut a fucking potato ... and fucking deep fry it(twice)! That's it! Don't coat them with that salty crusty dandruff-ry shit! I can't taste the potato anymore. We got along just fine the way they were ... JESUS CHRIST! Also, remove "Kids" meals from all fast food menus ... FUCK'em ... fuck the toys and playgrounds that are used to lure them in by pestering their "Spineless" parents to death.
In closing ... put Coke back in "glass" bottles and make it with SUGAR! You cheap, fucking sell-outs!
Happy Holidays!
17. Posted by Dave P on December 8, 2006